I have a spudgun that i havent had the chance to get an ignitor for and want to get it back into running order, i had a stun gun on it, but it shit the bed and wanted to get it working again, but i found one but dont know where to begin on how to connect wires to the little metal prongs coming out of the gun please help
heres is where i was looking
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stun-Gun-StunMa ... 1e64a565d4
anything helps
how to connect wires?
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Crimp on wire connector
Where's my Chuck key?
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you should crimp a connector on the outside prongs and heatshrink them then cover the inside prongs with liquid electrical tape as they are the test prongs then cover all of it.jsefcik wrote:prongs arent that long, i was thinking on soldering them on but what about the other two prongsGoats spudz wrote:Crimp on wire connector
Where's my Chuck key?
i could try that thanks,Goats spudz wrote:you should crimp a connector on the outside prongs and heatshrink them then cover the inside prongs with liquid electrical tape as they are the test prongs then cover all of it.jsefcik wrote:prongs arent that long, i was thinking on soldering them on but what about the other two prongsGoats spudz wrote:Crimp on wire connector
should i just stick with 1 spark gap? i was thinking mutiple?
You could probably insulate the wires or I Imagine: THIS!!!!
I think some type of car cables would be best.
But I'm not certain.
A multi-spark gap strip would be nice, get more (faster) ignition in the chamber on ignition.
But I'm not certain. For now I use a large chamber volume, and actually HOPE it will continue to burn as it enters the barrel.
But soon everything except foofy suits will be banned by the "nanny -state" anyway, and we'll all be in jail.
But I'll still be yur spud-bud and do my best to keep us safe from "bubba"
...That's all for now. I'm sick today.
GOOOOOSH!!!!!!!!!!
I think some type of car cables would be best.
But I'm not certain.
A multi-spark gap strip would be nice, get more (faster) ignition in the chamber on ignition.
But I'm not certain. For now I use a large chamber volume, and actually HOPE it will continue to burn as it enters the barrel.
But soon everything except foofy suits will be banned by the "nanny -state" anyway, and we'll all be in jail.
But I'll still be yur spud-bud and do my best to keep us safe from "bubba"
...That's all for now. I'm sick today.
GOOOOOSH!!!!!!!!!!
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if you have a look here http://www.spudfiles.com/spud_wiki/inde ... =Spark_gap in the spudwiki it shows you how to wire multiple spark gaps, also 8 AWG wire should work nicelyjsefcik wrote:i could try that thanks,Goats spudz wrote:you should crimp a connector on the outside prongs and heatshrink them then cover the inside prongs with liquid electrical tape as they are the test prongs then cover all of it.jsefcik wrote:
prongs arent that long, i was thinking on soldering them on but what about the other two prongs
should i just stick with 1 spark gap? i was thinking mutiple?
Where's my Chuck key?
You do not need 8 AWG wire.
18 AWG is more than enough. The trick is to have a thick insulation not a large conductor diameter.
You are dealing with a high voltage not a high current.
Insulation of 20KV, 30KV, 40KV and 50KV in 18 AWG is common.
Spark plug wires that are solid copper core would also work quite well.
http://stores.ebay.com/High-Voltage-HV/ ... 34.c0.m322
18 AWG is more than enough. The trick is to have a thick insulation not a large conductor diameter.
You are dealing with a high voltage not a high current.
Insulation of 20KV, 30KV, 40KV and 50KV in 18 AWG is common.
Spark plug wires that are solid copper core would also work quite well.
http://stores.ebay.com/High-Voltage-HV/ ... 34.c0.m322
my dad is an electrical tech, im got all the wires i needdewey-1 wrote:You do not need 8 AWG wire.
18 AWG is more than enough. The trick is to have a thick insulation not a large conductor diameter.
You are dealing with a high voltage not a high current.
Insulation of 20KV, 30KV, 40KV and 50KV in 18 AWG is common.
Spark plug wires that are solid copper core would also work quite well.
http://stores.ebay.com/High-Voltage-HV/ ... 34.c0.m322
once i get the chance to order the new gun, ill show you guys pics,,
im thinking about adding a chamber fan to it as well, its only spray and pray but my chamber is 6 inch diameter!!!
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I doubt you can solder to the stun gun's electrodes. Solder won't take to stainless steel worth a crap. (Solder is meant for copper, preferably tined copper). Most people open up the stun gun's case and do the wiring from inside.
The gauge of the wire is irrelevant. You could use hair thin wire or inch thick stuff. Won't make any difference.
The thickness of the insulation makes a small amount of difference. But if you keep the 2 wires well separated (and keep your hands off the wires ) then you don't even need insulated wire.
Easiest solution that will work just fine? Wires with alligator clips on the ends. You can make both the stun gun connections and the connections to the electrodes with the alligator clips. And, you can easily move the ignition system to another gun.
RadioShack sells a set of wires with alligator clips on them.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062660
The gauge of the wire is irrelevant. You could use hair thin wire or inch thick stuff. Won't make any difference.
The thickness of the insulation makes a small amount of difference. But if you keep the 2 wires well separated (and keep your hands off the wires ) then you don't even need insulated wire.
Easiest solution that will work just fine? Wires with alligator clips on the ends. You can make both the stun gun connections and the connections to the electrodes with the alligator clips. And, you can easily move the ignition system to another gun.
RadioShack sells a set of wires with alligator clips on them.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062660
jimmy101 wrote:I doubt you can solder to the stun gun's electrodes. Solder won't take to stainless steel worth a crap. (Solder is meant for copper, preferably tined copper). Most people open up the stun gun's case and do the wiring from inside.
The gauge of the wire is irrelevant. You could use hair thin wire or inch thick stuff. Won't make any difference.
The thickness of the insulation makes a small amount of difference. But if you keep the 2 wires well separated (and keep your hands off the wires ) then you don't even need insulated wire.
Easiest solution that will work just fine? Wires with alligator clips on the ends. You can make both the stun gun connections and the connections to the electrodes with the alligator clips. And, you can easily move the ignition system to another gun.
RadioShack sells a set of wires with alligator clips on them.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2062660
thanks dude, i think i might wire them up from inside like the website showed, and i love that idea of the 3/4 pipe to cover everything up!!!