Lots of comments. Thanks for the interest. I don't think I've ever seen so much interest in something I've done on a forum before. I'll try to respond to every one but if I miss you and you wanted a response, let me know.
One thing I'd like to say before I say anything else is that this project was on hiatus since August.
The NerfHaven thread about this project shows that. Due to college I will not be able have access to the gun until December 20th because I left it at my parents house, so any requests for videos, damage photos, etc., will sadly have to wait. I'd love to do them but I have other obligations at the moment.
Concerning different ammo, I'm not going to try anything different aside from different weight Nerf darts. The design is rather simple and of course would work on different sized ammo.
One thing to keep in mind is that I used telescoping brass tubes. These tubes are made with high precision to have an air tight yet smooth fit inside each other. They are available in most hobby stores. Their sizes are limited to less than 5/8 inch ID but some fit Nerf darts very well. Using these tubes avoided use of a lathe to get similar precision.
As for shells, I've always found them to be clumsy. They're more work to make and in this case wouldn't add any benefit. They are necessary in many different applications though (or something between a shell and a sabot).
I intend to add a stock eventually. This is just what I could complete given my limited time. Any specific ideas on a stock are welcome.
A video would be great. I don't have any video equipment though so it's not possible at the moment. I'll see what I can do in the next few weeks.
As for damage photos, I can get some. I've done tests with some heavier styrofoam I've found and it can get some pretty good penetration, which I found surprising because I'm shooting low density foam at high density foam. The gun could shoot clear through 1 1/4 inch of styrofoam. I'll have to get some different materials to test when I do more tests.
I see a lot of comments about the look. I wasn't going for any particular look and used what was available so it does have a distinct look. For those who worry about me changing the look, I don't plan on changing it substantially because it's only a test for the more serious prototype. The most I'll do is add a stock, a trigger, and clean up the plastic near the handle.
I suppose that you could make your gun a little bit more sturdy by making it from malleable iron threaded fittings... they really make life easier (sometimes)... this will also alllow you to use higher pressures
ohhh and there is a dead space between the tee and the air cylinder... it seems that it can be minimized... I am not an efficiency nazi like JSR Very Happy but dealing with it will help to make the gun shorter
Iron's heavy so I didn't consider it. Higher pressures aren't a concern in this specific gun either, though I wouldn't be surprised if it could hold 250 PSI without issue as is. I'm doing my tests at low pressures like 30 PSI.
While I'm unsure, I think the space you are referring to is where the bolt hides. I've tried to reduce the length as much as possible. Without changing the air cylinder (which could be shorter) I probably couldn't reduce the length very substantially without reducing the barrel length. I plan on making prototype 2 use a shorter air cylinder, but possibly I'll use a longer barrel so it might work out differently.
@SEAKING9006: I agree with much of your points about NerfHaven. That is precisely why I don't post there often. Sadly, with the recent influx of new members to NerfHaven, the situation is only getting worse. The alternatives are much worse however. While you can find gold at NerfHaven, other Nerf forums are pure trash. That is why I don't bother looking elsewhere, except for here, because people here actually know what they're doing.
The magazine uses a small
constant force spring. The side shown does not make the spring very visible. I chose a constnat force spring because helical springs will not make high capacity magazines very well. Because the displacement would be rather large, the increase in force would be rather large. Foam doesn't work well when squished.
The string only exists to help with loading. The magazine is internal for simplicity, so loading is done by pulling down the follower and dropping more darts in. Very simple.
first of all, the air cylinder is an overkill... I know it has to have long stroke becasue nerf darts are long... of course it would be easier if you used spherical ammo (becasue you could use shorter/cheaper cylinder and a hopper for magazine) but since you decided to build a nerf gun it shouldn't be discussed...
however the way in which you aranged the gun 'made' you use longer cylinder.... to the fact that ammo is pushed forward though the tee means that the cylinder has to push the dart about 3 - 4 cm further (I don't know its acctual dimensions so it is just a rough guesstimate) that 3 - 4 cm which are unneccessary mean that the cylinder has to have 3 - 4 cm longer stroke and overall this makes the gun 6 or 8 cm longer ( I hope you can understand what I mean Confused )
I agree about the length of the air cylinder. Shorter ones are available but not from McMaster-Carr, and initially I had not considered parts from elsewhere. As this is only a prototype I didn't worry much about it.
While I'm not sure I believe the reason the air cylinder is so long is because the force build up of the return spring must be small so the push occurs all at once instead of gradually (if you understand what I mean). The spring is prestressed and has a low spring constant. I don't care if it advances all at once so I could use a shorter air cylinder that is not prestressed.
I'm not quite sure what you mean in the second paragraph I quoted so if you could explain more I'm sure it would help.
As for your Cylidner thing, Would you reccomend possibly using a double acting cylinder?
I considered double acting air cylinders but they'd waste air and make the system more complicated. I wouldn't recommend them but they would work. If I already had a double acting air cylinder I probably would try it.
If you can disassemble the air cylinder you might be able to convert a double acting one into a single acting one by adding a spring. The one I have is one solid piece so that's not possible but you might want to consider it.
Actually, after some thought, air is like a spring, so if you make a small pressure chamber on one end of the double acting cylinder and leave it pressurized at a certain pressure level, the rod won't move until the other side has more pressure. This will act the same as a single action air cylinder but be a little larger. I would suggest this because you already have some double acting cylinders.
Hmm... POLAND_SPUD just recommended the same thing. It's worth considering, in fact, I might try it myself in prototype 2.