SpudFiles

Hi everybody
I found this site, witch sells rifled barrels to Portugal.
They have L.W barrels and HW/crosman barrels both in .177 or .22.
I´m thinking of a HW100 barrel witch costs about 100 euro. It comes ready to use and has 1/2 threading for mounting. But the crosman barrel is much much cheaper, only 40 euro also ready to use, so is it decently accurate? If it´s ok, I may change my mind about the HW barrel...

wyz2285 wrote:Hi everybody
I found this site, witch sells rifled barrels to Portugal.
They have L.W barrels and HW/crosman barrels both in .177 or .22.
I´m thinking of a HW100 barrel witch costs about 100 euro. It comes ready to use and has 1/2 threading for mounting. But the crosman barrel is much much cheaper, only 40 euro also ready to use, so is it decently accurate? If it´s ok, I may change my mind about the HW barrel...

The lothar barrel will be the best, the HW barrel will be really good but you will need a 1/2" UNF tap to mount it, the crosman will be fine for plinking and close distance shots (60 feet) and will be the most cost effective.

Crosman barrels are a crap shoot with their rather spotty quality control. Have one that groups 1/2" at 30m (.22cal)...others aren't this good.

Ultimately, you get what you pay for when it comes to barrels.

Think you may also find the 1/2-20 thread is at the muzzle end of the HW barrels.

Gippeto wrote:Crosman barrels are a crap shoot with their rather spotty quality control. Have one that groups 1/2" at 30m (.22cal)...others aren't this good.

A bit of attention to the crown would improve things. That said, some barrels tend to be pellet-fussy, so one would need to try a variety of brands before labelling it as "inaccurate" with confidence.

I'm going to buy the HW100 barrel, but I will check the threading too. 1/2 grouping at 30 not that bad for me

wyz2285 wrote:1/2 grouping at 30 not that bad for me

If that's your goal re-read Gippeto's post.

It's not my goal, but it's worthy for me to buy it and test a little bit with it.

I got a new offer, a BSA barrel 600mm, .177, blued with chock for around 100 euro, so is the HW100 barrel
Witch one is better? The BSA barrel probably isn´t chambered, so Gippeto can you show me maybe a photo of the chamber for the pellet?
Thanks

Really trying to complicate things aren't you. Likely a "potato vs potatoe" kind of difference between those barrels, but I've never heard of a bad HW barrel...cannot say the same of BSA barrels.

How the rest of the rifle is "set up" will alter "how" you chamber the barrel. Springers seat the pellet flush, and like a "tight" chamber and a little relief for the skirt. Many pcps have the pellet being inserted past a transfer port...some don't.

My chamber is .180" through to the leade, with a 60 degree leade into the rifling. I use a flow through probe, which seats the entire pellet past the leade and into the rifling. Where the pellets make entrance to the chamber, the edge is also deburred at 60 degrees.

Should go without saying, but the chamber and leade should only be cut after CAREFULLY centering the bore.

If you need to chamber the barrel, do that job first...then drill and deburr any transfer ports. If you do it the other way around, the missing material WILL pull the chamber reamer off center, and ruin the job.

Do a google for D style reamer, or ask one of the machinists. Easy to make and work very well with care.

This (LW) is only the second barrel I've chambered, but I'm pretty happy with the results.

From the bench @ 25m. These are ten shot groups fired after initial zero of the scope. JSB Exact heavy on the left, H&N Barracudas on the right. I simply cannot shoot any better than this, so time will tell if there's yet room for improvement.

Red "dots" are 1/4" in diameter.

Thank you sir
I will buy the HW barrel then, as it also comes ready to use
I hope I can do the same shots with my

You won't know until you start shooting it.

Small gains in consistency can be had from polishing the contacting edges of the belleville washers in the regulator.

Use a silicone grease on the regulator bits...divers silicone grease works fine.

More small gains can be had by polishing the inside of the tube where the striker rides, as well as polishing the striker. I run mine with a spray on graphite lube which drys...nothing to gum up when the weather turns cold...no oil...no grease.

Have yet to see a drawing of your barrel/bolt/receiver setup...and how's the math coming?

Any math about yield strength isn't going good, but I think I can answer your question about why to have the o-rings to isolate the pressure from the threadings: there are more area for the pressure to act on the threadings, causing more stress to the material. But I prefer class 2 threadings, easier to open.
Haven't draw the rest yet, but I won't use a conventional hammer, I will use a solenoid instead and it won't strike the valve stem directly, but a lever that amplify the striking force.
Also about the bellevile washes of the regulator, can a strong spring be used?I saw most airgun regulators use them and only found one that uses a spring. I want to see a alternative because I don't know if I can find them.

You should check this site out if you're looking for rifled barrels:

http://www.spudtech.com/store/index.php ... led+barrel

Does this guy even have a clue?^^^^^^^^ I dont think so!! :spam2: :spam2:

mattyzip77 wrote:Does this guy even have a clue?^^^^^^^^ I dont think so!! :spam2: :spam2:

Don't have to be a douche about it. I thought he was talking about a spud gun not a pellet gun.....