Page 1 of 2

just passing my plans by you guys.

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:42 pm
by pyromanic13
Image

ignore the stuff on the right side it won't make sense you guys.

please tell me if I forgot any parts, or if I won't get decent range, ect...

thanks in advanced!

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:57 pm
by saladtossser
good effort, but not all the needed parts are there, unless this is only a concept drawing

you are missing:

parts needed to connect the 2" pipe to the 1" threading of the spinkler valve, you can not find just ONE thing to do that.

a nipple connecting the blowgun to the valve

you forgot to lable the 4" to 2" bell reducer, which could be hard to find, you should make that a 4" to 2" bushing and a 4" coupling.

Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:04 pm
by CS
Just a simple inline pneumatic, dont see why it wouldnt work.

I notice that on the chamber side, you have a '2"x5"' length of pipe to connect the two fittings. Do yourself a favor for asthetics and measure the socket depths of both fittings and cut the pipe ~.125" under so the fittings sit flush agaisnt each other. Better yet, follows ST's advice and do the transtition (Reduction) with bushings rather then the method specified in your diagram.

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:00 am
by pyromanic13
ok I changed it to this point, could you list the parts needed to bring it from 2 inch smooth to 1 inch threaded please?

thanks, this is going to save me from sitting at home depot makeing last minute adaptations.

<a href="http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cannonzs9.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5320 ... zs9.th.png" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us"></a>

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:33 am
by noname
Buy two 2" slip x 1" female threaded bushings and 2 1" nipples.



woah salad's bunny is amazing

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:02 am
by SpudStuff
WTF Pyro there is nothing in your post.

Yes use the bushings and nipples If you want you can glue the nipple into the bushoung to make it easier to remove the valve

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:15 pm
by pyromanic13
ok sounds good

oh and spud stuff, I was bored so I made a post with nothing in it...

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:34 pm
by pyromanic13
do they make pvc parts that look like couplings but are threaded on the inside of BOTH parts?

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:18 pm
by noname
You can get steel and iron like that, but I'm not sure about PVC.

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:41 pm
by schmanman
yeah, you could use a steel threaded coupler. it would work just fine.

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:56 pm
by pyromanic13
but don't the steel ones get smaller the farther down you go?

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:01 pm
by schmanman
no,they don't, I've used them before. maby slightly , but only very slightly

Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:02 pm
by Shrimphead
IIRC, all npt threads are tapered.

Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 3:55 pm
by pyromanic13
http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cannonfr7.png

ok so this is what I've got now. tell me if you see any ways I can reduce the # of fittings I have to use. thanks! I can list them if I must...

I'd like to use mostly pvc parts, in the context that I'd like it to be as light as possible.

Posted: Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:37 pm
by BC Pneumatics
Pipe Threads taper down as you go. Look at any nipple or pipe tap, and this will become obvious.