SpudFiles

Hey everyone,
Last night I finished making my trigger and receiver out of an RC car (took a while, but finally got it. Im sure that everything works, as I have tested it out on the motor (some pictures when i get home. Basically, when i push the momentary button on the remote, it turns the power on the controller on. I have the ignition button for the RC car in full forward position (taped so it wont move to reverse) and when the car itself is on, power goes to the two wires that hooked up to the motor(i have them open so i could test it.
When i get my stun gun, I will be taking it apart. It is some jaguar 350K volt from Ebay.... $20 so how could i go wrong!? It is screwed together. Should i hook up those two wires that ran the motor to the on/off button, or the trigger of the stun gun? Unsure of which one and want to be sure on what I'm doing before i mess with a stun gun, since im all set with getting the hell zapped outa me if i dont have to...

Thanks everyone,
Ben

I would suggest you go to Radioshack and pick up a small relay. Connect the two wires in the RC reciever that were attached to the motor to the Relay's coil. Attach the two wires from the stun gun's fire switch (or push button) to the normally open contacts (NO) on the relay. Pick a relay that has a coil voltage about the same as the RC motor's voltage.

When you trigger the RC control it uses what was the motor's power to operate the relay. That in turn controls the triggering of the stun gun. With this setup the voltage and power for the two devices are kept separate. Since the RC motor was an inductive load (like the relay's coil) you shouldn't need a snubber diode across the relay's coil, though you might get a generic diode at RadioShack and include it across the relay's coil (in reverse polarity) just to be doubly sure the coil's back EMF doesn't hurt the RC electronics.

Note that the relay's contacts are used to switch the stun guns 9V supply, not the 35KV output of the stun gun.

Another good reason to use the relay is simply the electrical noise from the stun gun may play havoc with the RC receiver. Don't be surprised if the receiver ignores the transmitter when you press the button. Plan on a battery disconnect switch on the receiver so you can power it down if it locks up firing the stun gun. Many cheap car remotes have little EMF filtering and shielding.

If you're firing remotely, I hope you have safety factored in, ie the possibility of another signal triggering the launcher. Curious to know the reason for remote firing, combustion claymore?

Technician1002 wrote:Many cheap car remotes have little EMF filtering and shielding.

I think Tech put it quite well there. Something like this setup.

Also:

Hey everyone,
So I got the relay for the receiver, but now i need a little help with hooking it all up.
Here is the ignition trigger:


Here is the receiver:


Here is the relay(1):


relay(2):


Can anyone tell me where to wire the receiver in and where to wire the stun gun in?

Thanks,
Ben[/img]

You can see the switch inside the case. The red wires on the edited photo will be the switch for the stun gun. The yellow wires connect to the coil, so the radio should power that to turn on the switch.

No need to embed pictures once you've uploaded them, they show up double.

Thanks for the drawing... When I get the stun gun in finally ill wire it up and let you all know how it goes. And sorry about the pictures. I didnt know that.

Ben

Hey everyone,
So I just got the stun gun in the main that I ordered off Ebay, and wouldnt you know it, they lied to me, as it is glued together and not screwed. So i had to destroy the case, and finally got down to the good stuff. Now i cant wire it right. Can anyone please tell me where to connect the two red wires and the yellow one?

Thanks so much,
Ben

Ok,
Sorry about that last post. I did not realize that i could power the taser itself by a direct flow from a 9v battery to the top of the gun...
Now, can anyone tell me where to go from here?

Thanks,
Ben