Short question topic
That depends on the units your meter reads in (should say on the mode dial, mA or A).
I would guess you are in amps, in which case, the motor draws .62A or 620mA. This will go up A LOT as the torque load on the motor increases. Try dragging your finger on the shaft if it is a small motor.
The negative just means that you connected the meter backwards, which really doesn't matter.
I would guess you are in amps, in which case, the motor draws .62A or 620mA. This will go up A LOT as the torque load on the motor increases. Try dragging your finger on the shaft if it is a small motor.
The negative just means that you connected the meter backwards, which really doesn't matter.
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- Gun Freak
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Alright I tried putting load on the shaft and with a 1.5V battery it drew .5 before and .9 after the load, with 9V it drew .6 before and .9 after. So I need like a 1A source.
Zeus, just because I have cars doesn't mean I can take the batteries out of them besides I want this to be wall powered, not by some hunky battery.
Zeus, just because I have cars doesn't mean I can take the batteries out of them besides I want this to be wall powered, not by some hunky battery.
OG Anti-Hybrid
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
I really hope they teach reading comprehension over in 'Murrica. The point was, a car battery is a readily available source of 12VDC, you don't have to buy anything. If it runs well on a car battery, then the plugpack I linked should run it.Zeus wrote:GF, hook it up to a car battery, doesn't matter if it's still in the car...
If you want to buy one on Ebay, here's a perfect one for you.
/sarcasm, /hyperbole
- Gun Freak
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I didn't know you meant just testing with the car battery, my bad.
But I found some on amazon anyways, I can't buy off eBay.
But I found some on amazon anyways, I can't buy off eBay.
OG Anti-Hybrid
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
One man's trash is a true Spudder's treasure!
Golf Ball Cannon "Superna" ■ M16 BBMG ■ Pengun ■ Hammer Valve Airsoft Sniper ■ High Pressure .22 Coax
Holy Shat!
excuse this revival but I have a short question what is gives a stronger joint with standard copper fittings; just for copper or soldering?
Thanks
Thanks
AHahahahah!!mikemurph wrote:yea, the ammo has been changed to a more aero dynamic projectile. it consists of the back half of a dart, and a hot glue ball
- Gippeto
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Soldering/sweating is IMO more reliable than any form of epoxy could ever hope to be.
I use 95/5 Tin/Antimony. Joints to 1" are rated for 1000psi...believe JFC claims 500 or 600psi but not certain.
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=c ... wB3yLmPGBQ
I use 95/5 Tin/Antimony. Joints to 1" are rated for 1000psi...believe JFC claims 500 or 600psi but not certain.
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=c ... wB3yLmPGBQ
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Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
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- Lockednloaded
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Which of these: Propylene, ABS, Nylon, Acetal Resin, UHMW, or Delrin, could hold the most pressure if it were a 1" OD tube with 1/4" thick walls. And would tapping a 1/2" thread into the opening fo the tube severely weaken it?
I love lamp
- wyz2285
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I have used a nylon valve body for my pcp and have taken it to 50 bar. But Gippeto told me that nylon is not a good choice, delrin/acetal are safer, so I resume that nylon is weaker than delrin/acetal. About the rest I don't know. For me screw a 1/2 fitting will not seriously affect the strength, but you need to but threadings on it first.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
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Anyone know of a calculator to give a rough idea of linear force applied by a given screw thread for a given amount of torque?
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- wyz2285
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Hi, just got some questions:
For a .22 is it worth to use a counter-balanced hammer valve? The pressure it will use is >3000 psi
I´m designing a .144 and .22. I have no problem about any of the parts but long rifled barrel is something I can´t get. So, if I use a 4.5mm smooth stainless steel for main barrel and a section (about 10 cm) of rifled barrel in the beginning of it, will it improve accuracy noticeably? For the .22 I can do the same but the barrel is very expensive, so can a smooth bore pellet gun be accurate? Both guns will be very well machine made, so I want them to shot as good as they looks.
For a .22 is it worth to use a counter-balanced hammer valve? The pressure it will use is >3000 psi
I´m designing a .144 and .22. I have no problem about any of the parts but long rifled barrel is something I can´t get. So, if I use a 4.5mm smooth stainless steel for main barrel and a section (about 10 cm) of rifled barrel in the beginning of it, will it improve accuracy noticeably? For the .22 I can do the same but the barrel is very expensive, so can a smooth bore pellet gun be accurate? Both guns will be very well machine made, so I want them to shot as good as they looks.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "
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i get roughly 550 ft/s at 1000 psi with a normal hammer valve and a leaky smoothbore barrel and yes it can be accurate, i dont see the point in having a barrel with an unrifled part at the end
Where's my Chuck key?
- wyz2285
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The point is having a section of the barrel rifled to give the pellet a spin.
CpTn_lAw wrote: "yay, me wanna make big multishot pnoob with 1000 psi foot pump compressor using diamond as main material. Do you think wet bread make good sealant? "