SpudFiles

SLEEVING PVC

Provided By Foxx



Provided By Foxx

First off, I think the best way to make a golf ball barrel is to sleeve 1.5" SDR21 pipe into 2" sch80 pipe. However, many people have a tough time tracking down these somewhat exotic versions of PVC. An alternative is to sleeve 2" sch40 into 2"sch40, after making a lengthwise rip cut in the inner pipe.

I now share my experience in trying to sleeve 2" sc40 into 2" sc40 to make a GB barrel per Foxx's instructions. I snapped a few photos along the way. I'll also share a few of my own tips to help make this process go a bit smoother.

After measuring 7/8" and drawing guide lines on the pipe, I then used my table saw to make two cuts. I had to go back and trim just a bit more, maybe another 1/16"...
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002507.jpg">

Assuming you haven't lost any fingers to the table saw, it's now time for the tough part--sleeving. After it has been cut lengthwise, the pipe will tend to pull outward, away from the gap you have cut. Following Foxx's advice, I tried to use a clamp to bring the cut edges back together. However, I observed that the pipe does not bend uniformly, a the result is an oval that does not fit well into the round pipe that it is to be sleeved within....
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002508.jpg">
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002509.jpg">

For me, the use of a clamp alone did not prove useful. So I came up with a way to help keep the pipe a bit closer to the desired "round" shape....

<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002510.jpg">

<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002511.jpg">

I simply placed a GB in the barrel and applied the clamp, both approximately 1" from the end of the pipe. With the GB, the shape is still not a perfect circle, but it's much closer than just using the clamp alone.

The two edges will still try to pull away a little, so you'll need to counteract this a bit more. One thing that seemed to help with this was to position the clamp so that it pushed one edge of the lengthwise cut downward. Then, when you attempt to get the sleeve started, press the other edge against the outer barrel, in order to hold it down.

Just getting the sleeve started can be a challenge, but I got better with practice. Here's a shot of the sleeve just begining....
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002512.jpg">

From that point I removed the GB to prevent any sort of a jam, and then carefully repositioned the clamp a couple of inches up the pipe....
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002513.jpg">

To continue the sleeving, I placed the inner sleeve against a wall (padded with some scraps of carpet) and then used a rubber mallet to bang the other end of the outer sleeve pipe. After I got about 4 to 6 inches of the inner sleeve in place, then the edges pulled together much better...
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002514.jpg">

Now that I had a good start, I realized the rubber mallet was a great way to get the sleeve started for the first 8 to 10 inches, but it was slow and tedious. So I just had to figure out how to move the rest of the sleeve into place at a faster pace. For this, I placed a few scraps of carpet on my concrete driveway, turned the pipe verticaly with the outer sleeve downward, held the inner sleeve in my hands (with thick work gloves), and banged the pipe downward on the carpeted area. Just so I could tell that I was making progress, I occasoinally drew a few pencil lines on the inner sleeve pipe, and watched them disappear into the outer pipe as I worked. Here's the finished product....
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002515.jpg">

Using these methods, I have been able to sleeve a 4 ft and a 6ft barrel. I can say that this sleeving approach takes time and it is physically demanding.

And to quote Chewy, "if all else fails resort to brute force and awkwardness if it dont fit force it".

Wow looks like a task, how well does the golf ball fit in your new barrel?

Personally I would be afraid of it not fitting after I did all of that.

The fit is almost perfect. In fact, if I cover one end of the barrel with my hand, the GB takes longer to "fall" down the barrel, due to the seal. It would be even tighter if I bothered to fill the gap.

Did you ever see the photos of my glowing golfballs that I made back for the 4th of July? Here's one photo that shows the fit...
<img src="http://loose-cannon.home.mindspring.com ... 002525.jpg">

can u insert a metal stick in the gap? like what foxxlord did on his heavy barrel gun

saladtossser wrote:can u insert a metal stick in the gap? like what foxxlord did on his heavy barrel gun

Yep, I've seen how he filled the gap on a barrel like this.

Did you see where I said "It would be even tighter if I bothered to fill the gap. "???? So yes, I am aware that it is possible to fill the gap, but I don't think it's worth the trouble. You may ask why? Well, let me tell you. With a sleeved GB barrel, I can already send a GB out of sight. It's a beautiful thing, to see a GB disappear into the air.

oh, must have missed it, sry
you tested it? how was it compared to a regular spud? i'll bet it's not as loud.
and i wanna see what if i sleeved a 2" central vaccume tube in a 2"abs pipe, abs is very thick. i think i'll test that out someday.

Tried it with combustion and pneumatic launchers.

For pneumatics, from what I can tell, the smaller bore of a GB barrel seems to have a slightly higher tone than 1.5", and it definately has more high end than 2" barrels. But the difference is not huge.

With a combustion launcher, the difference is more noticible. The overall sound is a bit more of a sharp crack or pop sound. I attribute this mostly to the smaller barrel volume.

Are both pieces of pipe SCH 40?

There both sch 40 (read the second post)

would it be easier to use 2 clamps or maybe a strap clamp

i think that would be cool to throw some rubber in that gap near the end and get a pop-up effect like a flatline A- 5 barrel or airsoft but airsofts gay so no one cares.

Im not getting your idea. Please explain.

pimpmann22, you should probably take a course in idiot... it's a handy language to know around these parts.
Now, what I gather from arabidsquid is this: (but remember that I'm not exactly fluent in idiot, either)

He wants to fill the gap (see the bottom of the glowing-golfball-in-tube picture; it's the same gap that a metal strip was inserted into in the heavy barrel.) with a strip of rubber... the point being that this would make it high friction at the bottom, giving it a spin - the fundumental idea of hop-up.

To which I will respond with:
The rubber will have to slightly protrude to catch the paint ball, and this basicaly eliminates the option of simply pouring a "liquid rubber" product. (like plasti-dip) Inserting a peice of 'real rubber' would be fairly hard, at least as hard as the already existing meathod of adhearing some "friction tape" (or similar high friction adhesive-backed film) to the top of the muzzel end of the barrel.

Opps... let me translate that into idiot for you...
it wont be easy you cant just pour rubber down there cause the ball wont tooch it and real stufe like innertube is hard to use why bother when we have good way already just tape some of that tape they use for hockey sticks (HE-double hockey sticks LOL) on the top of you berral

I am working on sleeving but it is frickin annoying. I made my first notch/sliver/cut out piece way too small, so now I am holding the edges shut with a vice while drilling half in choles in the pipe and then connecting the holes. I did the sliver by drilling little tiny holes along the lines I drew and connecting those. I don't have anything to cut with except for a hacksaw, but that isn't 30 inches long. I can usually manage to almost stuff the cut out pipe into the bigger one, but then the GB doesn't fit. I'm going to keep workin on it though. Better than blowin a buttload of cash on SDR-21 and Sch 80.