Long barrel sleeving techniques?? (10ft)

[altxf4]

First of all...cannon specs:
over under
42x4" Class 315psi chamber
52" sleeved 2"sch80/1.5" sdr-21 barrel
2" Ranbird PEB irrigation valve modded for air use

I have access to plenty of 2" Sch80 and 1.5" SDR-21.
I have a pneumatic ive been using with a sleeved barrel already, but i find that it is way too short to get max velocity from my setup.

Trying to sleeve a 10ft barrel, but i can only get to 5ft before friction takes over...cant even pound it. Tried using a tractor to push the sdr in, but it bent it like a straw.

Any lubricants that can be used?

Thanks guys!

[homedepotpro]

you used a tractor, thats awesome!!!

[frankrede]

I would suggest using a water based lubricant, soemthing that will dry up over time.
Such as KY?lol?
sand the sdr 21 down slightly, make sure that the sch-80 doesn't have any debris, wash it down.

[altxf4]

I used some pull line and wet rags and pulled them through the 2" and wiped the outside of the 1.5"..... We got some water base wire pull lube in the shop...will see if that works!

I got a idea for using a industrial vacuume pump and caping the 1.5 and suck the 1.5 into the 2" maybe... hmmm... thinking!

[clide]

Set the SCH80 in the hot sun for awhile to expand it and get the SDR21 as cold as possible to contract it. Either keep it inside an air conditioned area for awhile or possibly use a temporary cap and fill it with ice water if you want to be sure to get in. Put on some lube for good measure and shove them into each other as fast as possible before the SCH80 cools down or the SDR21 warms up.

I've never used this method personally because mine just slid together, but I've heard that it works well.

[altxf4]

Think i will try that clide, and might run some fine grit sand paper up and down the SDR.

I have some good ideas for making rifled sleeved gold ball barrels, but need sleeving construction to be a lot quicker!

[pyrogeek]

When I sleeved my golf ball barrel (schedule 40 2in into another piece of schedule 40 2in) I cleaned the outter piece with a wet rag to remove any dirt, and then put some air tool lube in it. Then as I rammed the inner piece into the outter, I kept lubing it. I understand ramming the SDR 21 may be a problem since it's thin. So if it isn't going in, sand it lightly, and use a LOT of LUBE. This will be one of the only times you can be alone with bottle of lube getting sweaty and you could talk about it at a church

[dongfang]

Hi

If you are in a scientific mood, you might try to do the things that others suggested (clean pipes, heat and cool them, lube them) - but also try pull the inner pipe into the outer instead of pushing it (now that you have a tractor, hehe).

For example fold the sides of the inner pipe (heat it) to resemble an X as seen from the end. Or flatten it, and then fold it. Bolt some bracket on (big bolts that won't just cut through the plastic), and fasten a steel wire to the bracket.

You will need also to make a fixture for the outer pipe, for example by clamping a socket to a large piece of wood with some U clamps (or some better idea).

Now run the wire through the outer pipe and pull w the tractor .. have someone hammer it the other end maybe .. tell us what happens.

And .. better have a shield between the tractor and the other person, in case the wire snaps (thinking about it, a big piece of timber with a hole in it is enough to hold the outer pipe, and it is half a shield too).

I have the impression that pulling might be better, but I don't really know why. I have done it with success on a smaller scale with cables and wires through hoses, where pushing just jammed after a foot or two. Pulling also won't make the pipes want to bend. But it is an awkward set-up all right.

Regards
Soren

[Jumpin Jehosaphat]

Clide's way is probably the best, it would minimize impact on the pipe.

[dongfang]

Hi Jumpin'

Yeah, or do the operation with the sun heating the outer pipe (rotate it) and a vacuum cleaner cooling the inner pipe......

PVC is a lousy heat conductor. The other day I cast ice slugs in PVC pipe. I had trouble getting them back out: Trying to warm the pipe with my hands, it didn't even feel cold.

Regards
Soren

[Jumpin Jehosaphat]

Well the only reason I still think it might work better is that folding the pipe might make it impossible to fit the folded end into the bigger pipe.

[Velocity]

You could also cut the 2" SCH 80 length in half, and then solvent weld a coupler on one of the lengths of 2" SCH 80. Push the two together over the SDR-21, and then solvent weld the two pieces together at the center.

[altxf4]

You could also cut the 2" SCH 80 length in half, and then solvent weld a coupler on one of the lengths of 2" SCH 80. Push the two together over the SDR-21, and then solvent weld the two pieces together at the center.

I think i might do that, but use a 2x1/2 Tee. Want to devise a way to tension the barrel to get it straight if it sags... who knows. still thinking!


Thanks for all the ideas so far! I just might be able to try all of them and let you all know what works best!

[pyrogeek]

What if you cut a single slit in the schedule 80, and put a small shim in it to open it up a little so that the ID is a little larger? Then you could just pour a little glue into the seem after the SDR 21 is inside it, and take out the shims.
Oh, by the way. If you decide to cut PVC pipe, put it on a piece of angle iron and somehow clamp it on. Either with bungee straps or with duct tape. The angle iron will act as a guid and help you get a nice straight line.

If you sleeve 2in Schedule 40 into 2in Schedule 40, champfer the outside of the inner piece. It makes it so much easier to fit inside the outter pipe.