My First Cannon- CA1 SMSS -RETIRED-
Sorry for the flame did not mean to offend I am just big on safety. That ball valve makes more sense now too. Also just because I am pessimistic I would like to see some pics that confirm they are pressure rated.
Also welcome to the site.
Also welcome to the site.
Coodude26 wrote:
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
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Thanks, Maniac.
I'll probably keep that in mind on my next cannon. Although, the CA1 wasn't meant to have a long operational life anyway. The CA1 was only meant to be my first cannon and teach me a few things about cutting PVC larger that 1" (I have ratchet cutters for 1" and down) and working with valves. I also don't have much storage space for cannons. I will probably retire the CA1 soon after I complete my next cannon.
I'll probably keep that in mind on my next cannon. Although, the CA1 wasn't meant to have a long operational life anyway. The CA1 was only meant to be my first cannon and teach me a few things about cutting PVC larger that 1" (I have ratchet cutters for 1" and down) and working with valves. I also don't have much storage space for cannons. I will probably retire the CA1 soon after I complete my next cannon.
For your next cannon try to mod the valve it is not as hard as you think
just look here: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/modding ... -t305.html If you have any probs modding it just pm me. The mod really does increase preformance a LOT. And for cutting pvc just get a nice hack saw that will work fine.
just look here: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/modding ... -t305.html If you have any probs modding it just pm me. The mod really does increase preformance a LOT. And for cutting pvc just get a nice hack saw that will work fine.
Coodude26 wrote:
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
People who laugh really hard at stuff that pisses you off/you getting hurt, who then say "I'm sorry, I can't stop" but you know they easily could.
Mr.C: That's not as easy as you think. It's like me kicking you in the balls and telling you to stop crying.
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Yeah I already have a hacksaw, used it on the CA1. I just have a problem with making straight cuts with it. A better sawhorse might help. Also, my next cannon with be a blow forward. Won't need a sprinkler valve.
Uummm, notice at the 2:00 mark, the barrel look/ammo load, then again at the 2:10 mark, the firing without having filled the chamber with air or video edited. Not only did you look into the barrel but you loaded your ammo with the chamber full of air...a big no-no especially with piston guns. Yes, yours is a sprinkler valve gun but it's still bad practice and dangerous.SEAKING9006 wrote:Actually, the cannon isn't charged any of the times i look down the barrel.
Again, this is a decent effort...learn from it and move on. Oh and welcome to Spudfiles!
- Gippeto
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Actually, the cannon isn't charged any of the times i look down the barrel.
@ 2.00 into the vid, you look down the barrel, load a round, walk around, TOUCH the ball valve, and fire the shot.
If there is a splice in there, you must be really good at editing.
Edit: Sleeping at the keyboard and missed page 2.
@ 2.00 into the vid, you look down the barrel, load a round, walk around, TOUCH the ball valve, and fire the shot.
If there is a splice in there, you must be really good at editing.
Edit: Sleeping at the keyboard and missed page 2.
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
- Thursto
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I beleive it is not pressure rated, as i once read on a topic, how to tell the difference. LOOK at the pictures he posted, where the smaller side of the bell reducer connects to the pressure side of the sprinkler the valve, the socket is like 1cm deep.
but lets not cause a huge debate about it. Hes also using it around 65 psi which is reasonably safe if its not pressure rated, but like all pressure rised cannons, do not drop them
How about you just shot the rubber ball btw?
but lets not cause a huge debate about it. Hes also using it around 65 psi which is reasonably safe if its not pressure rated, but like all pressure rised cannons, do not drop them
How about you just shot the rubber ball btw?
~ AUSSIE LAND ~
well i think u did a good job on the cannon, and in the video the intro and description was good. btw i need that ball valve for my cannon!
and those guys freaking out about the dwv maybe they forgot that pvc in general was not meant for use in cannons of any kind. good job!
and those guys freaking out about the dwv maybe they forgot that pvc in general was not meant for use in cannons of any kind. good job!
- noob of noobs
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Eh, I'd agree with Thursto. Those sockets look a bit too shallow, and I've never found any spudding-safe materials at Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes that are larger than 2". Also, nobody's mentioned this, but make sure that your 3" chamber isn't cell core. Yes, Home Depot sells the 2' x 3" pipe that's pressure rated, but I heard you talking about cutting large pipe. Well, if you cut a piece of 3" pipe from Home Depot, it might be cell core, which is bad.
Sorry, I don't mean to be critical, but I just know that my first 3 or 4 cannons I built were all using DWV fittings and 2 used cell core because I just didn't know about this stuff. I pressurized DWV to about 110 psi once and it held, but I still wouldn't recomend it. Saftey first.
Either way, the gun looks good. I look forward to seeing your next projects.
Welcome to spudfiles!
Sorry, I don't mean to be critical, but I just know that my first 3 or 4 cannons I built were all using DWV fittings and 2 used cell core because I just didn't know about this stuff. I pressurized DWV to about 110 psi once and it held, but I still wouldn't recomend it. Saftey first.
Either way, the gun looks good. I look forward to seeing your next projects.
Welcome to spudfiles!
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Nice cannon, however may I take the opportunity to join the previous safety nazi tirades and remind you of our beloved frogboy and basic firearm safety rules which apply to spudguns as well:
In short, you don't want to become an internet meme...
There is absolutely *nothing* to be gained by looking down the barrel, even though it seems to be an instinctive reaction - but if you must do it, use a mirror!1. Treat every firearm as if it were loaded.
2. Never allow the muzzle to point at anything you are not willing to see destroyed.
3. Be sure of your target and know what lies behind it.
4. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are aligned on target.
In short, you don't want to become an internet meme...
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
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Actually yeah, I got the 2' section. I just used the hacksaw on a small section of 1 1/2" to go from tank to valve.noob of noobs wrote:Eh, I'd agree with Thursto. Those sockets look a bit too shallow, and I've never found any spudding-safe materials at Home Depot, Menards, or Lowes that are larger than 2". Also, nobody's mentioned this, but make sure that your 3" chamber isn't cell core. Yes, Home Depot sells the 2' x 3" pipe that's pressure rated, but I heard you talking about cutting large pipe. Well, if you cut a piece of 3" pipe from Home Depot, it might be cell core, which is bad.
Sorry, I don't mean to be critical, but I just know that my first 3 or 4 cannons I built were all using DWV fittings and 2 used cell core because I just didn't know about this stuff. I pressurized DWV to about 110 psi once and it held, but I still wouldn't recomend it. Saftey first.
Either way, the gun looks good. I look forward to seeing your next projects.
Welcome to spudfiles!
I'm not going into it AT ALL, but you're a bit late to say that.In short, you don't want to become an internet meme...
- VH_man
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guys... seriously... come on.
reading this thread depressed me. it was the exact opposite of the reactions i got when i was new here.
Anyway, SPEAKING:
The setup you used to slow the projectile..... how well does that work? im looking into the construction of a quality backstop and id like to know the "stopping" ability of sheets like that.
reading this thread depressed me. it was the exact opposite of the reactions i got when i was new here.
Anyway, SPEAKING:
The setup you used to slow the projectile..... how well does that work? im looking into the construction of a quality backstop and id like to know the "stopping" ability of sheets like that.
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Three words:VH_man wrote:guys... seriously... come on.
reading this thread depressed me. it was the exact opposite of the reactions i got when i was new here.
Anyway, SPEAKING:
The setup you used to slow the projectile..... how well does that work? im looking into the construction of a quality backstop and id like to know the "stopping" ability of sheets like that.
USE. SOMETHING. ELSE.
Trust me, I couldn't fire just the ball over 50 because it would just tear right through. Even with both the ball and roller, the roller sometimes got stuck in the blanket. It is made of coarse woven fibers. Try a comforter made of layered fabric, that should stop it better.
I agree with VH, stop the flame.
same question as VH too.
same question as VH too.
- Mr.Sandman
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i think it would be wise to invest in a blowgun and an endcap with a schrader valve but hey, then it wouldnt have given me a reason to post this message