just passing my plans by you guys.

Show us your pneumatic spud gun! Discuss pneumatic (compressed gas) powered potato guns and related accessories. Valve types, actuation, pipe, materials, fittings, compressors, safety, gas choices, and more.
pyromanic13
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Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:42 pm

Image

ignore the stuff on the right side it won't make sense you guys.

please tell me if I forgot any parts, or if I won't get decent range, ect...

thanks in advanced!
Last edited by pyromanic13 on Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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saladtossser
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Mon Aug 14, 2006 10:57 pm

good effort, but not all the needed parts are there, unless this is only a concept drawing

you are missing:

parts needed to connect the 2" pipe to the 1" threading of the spinkler valve, you can not find just ONE thing to do that.

a nipple connecting the blowgun to the valve

you forgot to lable the 4" to 2" bell reducer, which could be hard to find, you should make that a 4" to 2" bushing and a 4" coupling.
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Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:04 pm

Just a simple inline pneumatic, dont see why it wouldnt work.

I notice that on the chamber side, you have a '2"x5"' length of pipe to connect the two fittings. Do yourself a favor for asthetics and measure the socket depths of both fittings and cut the pipe ~.125" under so the fittings sit flush agaisnt each other. Better yet, follows ST's advice and do the transtition (Reduction) with bushings rather then the method specified in your diagram.
pyromanic13
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:00 am

ok I changed it to this point, could you list the parts needed to bring it from 2 inch smooth to 1 inch threaded please?

thanks, this is going to save me from sitting at home depot makeing last minute adaptations.

<a href="http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cannonzs9.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/5320 ... zs9.th.png" border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us"></a>
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noname
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:33 am

Buy two 2" slip x 1" female threaded bushings and 2 1" nipples.



woah salad's bunny is amazing
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SpudStuff
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 11:02 am

WTF Pyro there is nothing in your post.

Yes use the bushings and nipples If you want you can glue the nipple into the bushoung to make it easier to remove the valve
pyromanic13
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:15 pm

ok sounds good

oh and spud stuff, I was bored so I made a post with nothing in it...
Last edited by pyromanic13 on Tue Aug 15, 2006 1:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
pyromanic13
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:34 pm

do they make pvc parts that look like couplings but are threaded on the inside of BOTH parts?
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noname
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:18 pm

You can get steel and iron like that, but I'm not sure about PVC.
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schmanman
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:41 pm

yeah, you could use a steel threaded coupler. it would work just fine.
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pyromanic13
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 6:56 pm

but don't the steel ones get smaller the farther down you go?
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schmanman
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:01 pm

no,they don't, I've used them before. maby slightly , but only very slightly
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Shrimphead
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Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:02 pm

IIRC, all npt threads are tapered.
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pyromanic13
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Wed Aug 16, 2006 3:55 pm

http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cannonfr7.png

ok so this is what I've got now. tell me if you see any ways I can reduce the # of fittings I have to use. thanks! I can list them if I must...

I'd like to use mostly pvc parts, in the context that I'd like it to be as light as possible.
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BC Pneumatics
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Wed Aug 16, 2006 4:37 pm

Pipe Threads taper down as you go. Look at any nipple or pipe tap, and this will become obvious.
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