Ball-valve AG w Stock
Here's what I've been working on during my free time. A ball-valve airgun was simple enough to put together, without taking up too much time and effort. The stock isn't a solid piece, they're made from separate planks, I'm going to epoxy the handle, butt and foregrip together. I also need to shorten the ball-valves' handles and set up the trigger. Maybe paint it?
The barrel is .45 copper & the air-chamber is 1/2'' x 8'' steel pipe. Currently using 40gr+ naildarts @ 100psi. I hope I can find a good shock pump that doesn't leak and take it up to 150psi - 180psi. I hope.
1 question, if a ballvalve is rated at 150psi is it okay to take it up to 180psi to 200psi? 30-50psi pass the rated point? Is it safe? Will this damage the valve?
The barrel is .45 copper & the air-chamber is 1/2'' x 8'' steel pipe. Currently using 40gr+ naildarts @ 100psi. I hope I can find a good shock pump that doesn't leak and take it up to 150psi - 180psi. I hope.
1 question, if a ballvalve is rated at 150psi is it okay to take it up to 180psi to 200psi? 30-50psi pass the rated point? Is it safe? Will this damage the valve?
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Consider spring loading the ball valve for better consistency and power.
I've used "domestic" grade ball valves to 800 psi without problems.
I've used "domestic" grade ball valves to 800 psi without problems.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
I will, I was planning to spring it open, this is gun is still unfinished. I will use a strong elastic instead of a spring, cause I can't find a spring lol. Just have to replace the bands when they wear out. I like the ball-valve's simplicity. It can be easily put together anytime.
I'll update this in more detail when the gun is finished.
I'll update this in more detail when the gun is finished.
- Labtecpower
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Labtecpower very nice gun and trigger mech. I like the threaded bolt with the hook I'll see if I can find that, very nice idea I used to use just a bolt to hold the bands to my trigger for my previous one. Anyway thanks for the
I'm planning to use black zip ties. Should I spray paint it black or gloss it or... any ideas that would make it look better. Black paint would be an easy way out to cover up the zips and epoxy. Then maybe some designs, lol.
I'm planning to use black zip ties. Should I spray paint it black or gloss it or... any ideas that would make it look better. Black paint would be an easy way out to cover up the zips and epoxy. Then maybe some designs, lol.
Last edited by josephlys on Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
- mattyzip77
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Cool simple design however I think it looks better without the wood,,,
Go Bruins!!!!
update, sorry it took so long been busy. Anyway Finish putting together my ball-valve airgun
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Shot into a wooden shelve, also tested on different hardwood boards @ 100psi I can get these darts 1/2'' deep. On softer variety/parts of wood It drives them almost 1''+ deep.
Accuracy -sigh- not so good. 4'' groupings standing offhand @ 10meters(30feet). With a rest I thought it would be much better but only improved slightly with 3'' groupings. I'm using 2'' naildarts (2.7g)
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Just need to juice it up from 100psi to 400psi, and shoot some bigger, heavier naildarts.
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Shot into a wooden shelve, also tested on different hardwood boards @ 100psi I can get these darts 1/2'' deep. On softer variety/parts of wood It drives them almost 1''+ deep.
Accuracy -sigh- not so good. 4'' groupings standing offhand @ 10meters(30feet). With a rest I thought it would be much better but only improved slightly with 3'' groupings. I'm using 2'' naildarts (2.7g)
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Just need to juice it up from 100psi to 400psi, and shoot some bigger, heavier naildarts.
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Ah, much better
Given the random direction in which the nail darts will exit the barrel, I don't think you can expect much better accuracy than what you are getting with these projectiles.
You might want to consider a 1/4" ID barrel and use 0.25" airgun pellets for better consistency.
http://www.pyramydair.com/a/Ammo/Pellet ... ibers_0_25
Given the random direction in which the nail darts will exit the barrel, I don't think you can expect much better accuracy than what you are getting with these projectiles.
You might want to consider a 1/4" ID barrel and use 0.25" airgun pellets for better consistency.
http://www.pyramydair.com/a/Ammo/Pellet ... ibers_0_25
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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What you need though is something to centre the nail in the barrel, to make sure it flies true.
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
Another update: Made it a little lighter by cutting the front, did a little sanding, and I spray painted it black.
The guns actually ready, just needs a shock pump.
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The guns actually ready, just needs a shock pump.
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- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Looking good
Any chance of a video of it firing?
I'm curious as to how fast the ball valve opens.
Any chance of a video of it firing?
I'm curious as to how fast the ball valve opens.
Once you do that, 400 psi is a mustjust needs a shock pump
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
- jackssmirkingrevenge
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Needs a proper sight, have a look here for inspiration: http://www.spudfiles.com/forums/oak-gun ... 17674.html
hectmarr wrote:You have to make many weapons, because this field is long and short life
With light projectiles like that, it is very likely they are leaving the barrel before the valve is fully open.I'm curious as to how fast the ball valve opens.
I recorded this last summer. The pressure is quite low, but the projectile is very light. (and that YouTube music is very shitty...)
[youtube][/youtube]
I've since rebuilt it to have a much higher initial tension, which also serves as a brake just at then end to prevent the ballvalve handle from distorting as it hits the stop.
I've done shots at just over 1000psi with that airgun.