Short question topic
- Gippeto
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Goats...IF...you've drawn your trigger and sear reasonably accurately...give those bits a re-think.
You'll also want more than the one screw to handle the energy transfer of the striker...in the stock setup, the valve is "backed up" by the cartridge and a threaded end cap...giving the valve no where to go. This isn't the case with your drawing.
Otherwise...I'm liking where you're going with that. 8)
You'll also want more than the one screw to handle the energy transfer of the striker...in the stock setup, the valve is "backed up" by the cartridge and a threaded end cap...giving the valve no where to go. This isn't the case with your drawing.
Otherwise...I'm liking where you're going with that. 8)
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
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Yeh the trigger and sear on the Paint drawing are 100% inaccurately drawn
I just wanted to know if there would be much movement from 0.20mm space
I just wanted to know if there would be much movement from 0.20mm space
Where's my Chuck key?
- PaperNinja
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How thick do walls need to be for BSPP male threading?
What pipe size and what pressure?PaperNinja wrote:How thick do walls need to be for BSPP male threading?
- PaperNinja
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I think 3/8" BSPP with little to no pressure.
Will I be able to have a male threading of 3/8" BSPP, (or really any size BSPP with the walls reasonably small) with an ID of 0.35"?
Will I be able to have a male threading of 3/8" BSPP, (or really any size BSPP with the walls reasonably small) with an ID of 0.35"?
- PaperNinja
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Someone answer?
EDIT: I"m sorry, I should mean 1/4 BSPP
EDIT: I"m sorry, I should mean 1/4 BSPP
I knew not to answer you because you can not seem to keep things straight, changing your mind after you post.PaperNinja wrote:Someone answer?
EDIT: I"m sorry, I should mean 1/4 BSPP
Go to mcmaster.com and look under pipe/fitting. Then select what you want and you can select CAD files for dimensions.
When posting questions please provide a little more information than what you usually ask. It helps in providing a knowledgeable answer.
- Gippeto
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Yer a fart smeller.dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because....
Or maybe that's smart feller?
Either way, I had a chuckle. 8)
"It could be that the purpose of your life is to serve as a warning to others" – unknown
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
Liberalism is a mental disorder, reality is it's cure.
It takes one to know one!Gippeto wrote:Yer a fart smeller.dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because....
Or maybe that's smart feller?
Either way, I had a chuckle. 8)
- PaperNinja
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dewey-1 wrote:I knew not to answer you because you can not seem to keep things straight
- doomburger
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Ok guys, so I wanted to use Rectorseal 5 for my threaded metal pipes, but the website I am buying from (grainger.com) states this:
"For Metal
Use primer to increase cure speed or to ensure proper cure on inactive metals."
Since stainless steel is an inactive metal, I will probably have to use the primer. Do I need to spread the primer on both the female and male joints (like pvc primer)?
"For Metal
Use primer to increase cure speed or to ensure proper cure on inactive metals."
Since stainless steel is an inactive metal, I will probably have to use the primer. Do I need to spread the primer on both the female and male joints (like pvc primer)?
- mattyzip77
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Just use regular pipe dope or teflon tape.
Go Bruins!!!!
- velocity3x
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Rectorseal??
Sounds like something you can get only from a Proctologist.
Matty is right....pipe dope or tape.
Sounds like something you can get only from a Proctologist.
Matty is right....pipe dope or tape.
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- doomburger
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Ah, I guess I will use the thicker pink colored tape as it seems to be for compressed air. Do I wrap the thicker pink tape just like the normal white tape? (5-6 times around) Thanks guys 8)