Best way to seal metal threads?
Sorry if this is a really dumb question, but I just assembled my first metal cannon but cannot get it to stop leaking. First I tried regular Teflon tape then I tried the yellow Teflon that is supposed to be made for metal pipes. I went through a roll of each after trying repeatedly to get it to seal. I tried more tape, less tape, varying thicknesses etc. but I could not get it to hold air even at 30PSI.
I am using 1 1/4" threaded metal pipes from home depot if that makes a difference.
Is the liquid sealant better? Can I still reuse the pipes later if I use the metal glue?
Any help would be appreciated.
I am using 1 1/4" threaded metal pipes from home depot if that makes a difference.
Is the liquid sealant better? Can I still reuse the pipes later if I use the metal glue?
Any help would be appreciated.
Go around the thread 2-3 times ensuring that it stays flat, not wrinkling. And tighten about one turn more then you can do with hand. Once the tape has been applied only tighten, once loosened the tape can be damaged and must be reapplied.
I've never used liquid sealant. No idea about the glue, but teflon tape works, your doing something wrong.
edit:
Google is your friend! Use it!
I've never used liquid sealant. No idea about the glue, but teflon tape works, your doing something wrong.
edit:
Google is your friend! Use it!
These guys in the video use more then 3 wraps, but that isn't necessary in my experience. Also pay attention that you have to wrap it on in one direction and not the other. Watch the video to see what I mean.White – used on NPT threads up to 3/8 inch
Yellow – used on NPT threads 1/2 inch to 2 inch, often labeled "gas tape"
Pink – used on NPT threads 1/2 inch to 2 inch
How does I use brain? Sorry, but it is a bit ridiculous.How do I tighten it more than by hand?
Depending on the configuration you could stick a metal bar into a T fitting, but I have no idea of the layout.
- mattyzip77
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If teflon tape and elbow grease does not work, try some epoxy or j b weld when you thread it together..............
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Like CS has posted only way you will get a air tight seal able to handle compression is going to be with tools.
I use 3 wrap arounds of white PTFE tape then crank it as tight as possibly prefect seal no leaks.
Even if you coat them in jb weld or epoxy which I would not recommend it won't have enough strength to handle the compression and knocks, wear and tear ect.
I use 3 wrap arounds of white PTFE tape then crank it as tight as possibly prefect seal no leaks.
Even if you coat them in jb weld or epoxy which I would not recommend it won't have enough strength to handle the compression and knocks, wear and tear ect.
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A plumber (HP gas,water) mate of mine put me onto liquid sealant. Having used Teflon tape and my muscles, ie damaged thread... liquid sealant is brilliant! Just easily nd neatly cover first two or three of the male thread hold it vertical and twist female thread on, twist it back and firth until you feel it fill the thread. You can even back it off to where you need it to sit ie triggers. Sets in 10min crures in 3hrs, comes apart with tooling, way easier to clean off than tape or epoxy. Using Boston liquid sealant all my builds have been air "tight" within 20min . Still holding 260psi 3months later. Pulled it apart yesterday for inspection and clean (over 1000 shots) 1hr from start to test fire... I've used Two types of tape and epoxy and combinations of both... Try it you'll kick yourself... plus you can just wipe off excess.. no mess.
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Cleans up heaps easier than tape!!! Works on multi metal threads... brass to brass is best. It takes a pretty good amount of effort to break the bond but the thread is always intact and sooo much easier to clean up ready to be refitted. Worked on my huge gal steel chamber, brass to S's ballvalve , 2 brass elbows that get blasted each shot with 260psi. My tape and epoxy are in the bin when it comes to sealing.
Plus you can assemble with two or four fingers as long as you have apossable thumbs
Saturday BBQ drinks don't make my spelling so neat...
3rd edit... not saying other methods don't work... sealant has worked best for my application and seems to out perform in in ease of use and re use..
P.s. I faaaaaarkin hate Teflon tape!!
Plus you can assemble with two or four fingers as long as you have apossable thumbs
Saturday BBQ drinks don't make my spelling so neat...
3rd edit... not saying other methods don't work... sealant has worked best for my application and seems to out perform in in ease of use and re use..
P.s. I faaaaaarkin hate Teflon tape!!
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Last edited by speedballs on Sat Mar 23, 2013 2:11 am, edited 2 times in total.
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I'm going to look out for some Boston liquid sealant and give it a go, sure I will find some on eBay only thing is I have about a 1000 meters worth of Teflon tape lol.
- mattyzip77
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You have no idea what your talking about... Epoxy will hold well over 1000 psi with ease...also if you dont have the proper tools I do not suggest that you build spud cannons.....flashskate13 wrote:Like CS has posted only way you will get a air tight seal able to handle compression is going to be with tools.
I use 3 wrap arounds of white PTFE tape then crank it as tight as possibly prefect seal no leaks.
Even if you coat them in jb weld or epoxy which I would not recommend it won't have enough strength to handle the compression and knocks, wear and tear ect.
Go Bruins!!!!
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Epoxy is strong no denying but but it can't chemical etch to metal because metal is not pourous .
Also epoxy only gains strength when glass matt or fibre is introduce, over wise epoxy is weak brittle.
All I was saying is their are better ways !!!
Also epoxy only gains strength when glass matt or fibre is introduce, over wise epoxy is weak brittle.
All I was saying is their are better ways !!!
Bit contradiction when you say its OK but with out proper tools it pointlessalso if you dont have the proper tools I do not suggest that you build spud cannons
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Solar wrote:Loctite Thread SEALANT, not loctite thread locker workes good too. Remember to let any liquid dry overnight though.
Was that "not"...or supposed to be "note"?
I use blue loctite on fittings all the time. Works great. Overnight cure is a must. Dis-assembly is no problem.
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